Saturday, 3 July 2010

Fade to Grey

Visited Hasty Bank yesterday with Steve D. We warmed up in a little quarry on the south side of the bank which has a cool carved head in one of the rocks (see vid). Did a couple of decent lines and tried and failed on a really desperate wall there. I'm not good on that sort of vertical/slabby crimpy, quarried rock and usually struggle to find enjoyment beyond the pain felt in fingers and toes. As such, the simpsons stlye head carving was pretty much the highlight for me so onto the Wainstones....

There was awesome wind around yielding good midge free conditions. After a little more warming we got the pads under 'Fade to Grey', a relatively new addition from Jason Wood. It's a nice natural traverse on slopers and iron pockets. Bagged up, we moved onto the Loaf boulder and did a probable new line on the right hand side of the billsdale face. It's slighly easier but has similar awquard snatches to Beneath the Breadline, a font6c+ to the left I did last september. Anyway, decent but not great, gone for 'Daily Bread' as a name and font6c+ as a grade.

Fade to Grey, Wainstones bouldering July '10 from Ram Man on Vimeo.



Next up, we regrouped after pad surfing down to and flailing on/around the prow area and moved venue. There, we toproped a project I've had in mind for a while to visit. It was as good and as hard as I'd hoped and should go if I can get de-injured enough soon. A good day but towards the end it was proven once more that elbows are the most homosexual part of man's anatomy.

2 comments:

  1. The micro crimps were a delight on 'Daily Bread' nice addition, dabbled with the overhanging crack, that has some interesting variations!

    ReplyDelete
  2. ah nice one. As in the overhanging crack on the bivuac blck? meant to try it a bit but ended up down on the prow - tried the full line of the prow, all the way along the lip without rocking up left from jug, desperate and dangerous!

    ReplyDelete