Grade-wise, I think low E7 is a fair guide for the would be onsighter though in a totally clean state and with some chalk on the holds it could sneak in at top end E6. I reckon E7 is more in line with the grades of other routes at the crag though.
Anyway, after a few sweaty top ropes on Saturday's roastathon, fortunately I bottled going for the lead and returned with my dad and dog and met up with Reeve again on a considerably cooler and more conducive Sunday. Got warmed up a bit, did one more top rope then went for the lead. All went ok really, fortunately the unrehearsed, dusty 4c/5a top out didn't cause as many problems as it might've. Should have moved the top rope anchors out the way too as it spoils the vid footage and stills a bit but oh well...
Collateral from Ram Man on Vimeo.
Excellent, that's definately the same line that Steve Findlay cleaned around the time that I did The Popes etc. I don't think he actually ever attempted a lead and top-roping it was outside his ethics set along with chalk useage.
ReplyDeleteStill the arete direct to clean up the whole buttress?
Chris Shorter
Bon Effort. Looks like good climbing. I was looking at traversing in from stratagem, but bon effort for opening up another decent line.
ReplyDeleteHi Chris,
ReplyDeleteCollateral with no chalk or knowledge of the moves would have been quite an effort! I'm sure some of you guys would have done it years ago with some full-bore headpointing/cheating(!) tactics...
Yeah there's still a more direct solution to the arete to be done for sure. Maybe have another look once it cools off a little. There's also direct up the side wall above the hanging flake/groove thing. It's got holds so presumably must be just about possible to climb...or maybe not!? at least it's safe. Then there're some ridiculous though potentially worthwhile link-up stlye routes too I reckon. Plenty still to try!
Cheers Franco, yeah I was initially trying to get onto Collateral's arete right of Stratagem but still on the LHS of the arete. But then I noticed the undercut in the roof, perfectly made for your left hand which leads you out onto the other side - it's the way on this one for sure and has the added bonus of firmly putting runners in stratagem out of the question!
One day I visited Ravenscar with Paul Smith to look at the arete and he thought a direct above the flake would be possible. I thought he had a good imagination! It must have been around 20 years ago; Paul was climbing very well then and had just done something at Malham that is F8b today. Still, it took him several visits to do Stratagem! So, maybe, there is a slight chance straight up the wall.
ReplyDeletePS Did you ever get the video of Three Screaming Popes? I would be interested to see it and what method you came up with.
Chris Shorter
Hi Chris,
ReplyDeleteyour comment reminded me to make a very quick edit of the Three Screaming Popes footage. It's not the best (filming or climbing!) but at least gives an impression of the moves I suppose. (see new post)