Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Stormy Hall + Camp Hill

Phone interviews done and emails sent by 10am, myself and another Steve headed off to Stormy Hall yesterday. Got back on Body Torque and made good progress. Figured out a more satisfactory clean sit start - an improvement from the squatting solution from last visit. This better (true!) start adds a fair few more good moves into an already hard (for me) and involved sequence. Good Stuff. It's surprising how much there is to do on it considering it's not that high - quite alot of side to side motion necessary to go up! Anyway, did overlapping halves yesterday and repeated the squatting start. Some of the holds are a little painful but I really like this problem, a good blend of burl and technique/accuracy needed. For my strength level, I'll have to climb it really well to get to the top I think. Hopefully next time!


Body Torque finsih^

Over to Camp Hill and we both did Philleas Fogg Standing. I then linked the sitter, then did the sitter again as the camera tape messed up, and again after it messed up for the second time. Didn't mind though - it's a great problem. Was feeling a lot easier yesterday than last time. Mainly I think as it was a lot colder yesterday than previous visit. Not sure about the grade for this reason. Maybe 7a is a bit generaous, maybe not. Next headed down to the nice arete boulder. Showed Steve the eliminate Lee came up with last time and we both got quite keen for it. It's a worthwhile eliminate for sure and only has one rule - hands pinching the arete only. Nice movement. We both ticked the stand but with different methods but both failed on the sit as skin degenerated. Trouble with the sit is that you need pads doubled or even tripled to reach the decent bit of arete to pinch and pull on unless you're tall...

Anyway, here's a quick vid from the day:

Philleas Fogg @ Camp Hill from Ram Man on Vimeo.

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