Sunday, 16 May 2010

one in, one out

Explored a large setion of the Eastern drop off Blakey Ridge yesterday with Lee - he'd been busy planning and looking down on small bits of rock from space again. We essentially checked out all the way from the Lion Inn down to Oak Crag and then another mile or so further south from there. Nothing of any worth turned up until we reached Oak Crag though the heart and lungs were now fired up and the feet were soggy.

I'd actually visited Oak Crag years ago but unfortunately have no recollection of what I climbed. Anyway, yesterday I did a couple of the established routes (Digimon, Captain Birdseye) which were nice and we set about trying a great looking steep wall just to left:



Initially, I was a bit unsure of the rock quality but nothing seemed to be coming off it despite pulling as hard as I could on the holds - it's actually fine. It soon became clear that it was too hard for us. Awesome to find something good quality, clearly possible but currently too difficult. Time to get stronger, lighter, etc. etc. as always!

Next up we headed further South to cluster Lee had just sprinted to and from. Unfortunately it turned out a bit disappointing but we did do one good, (if rather isolated!) problem:



< The very dynamic 'Beacoup de Gifle', font6b. Climbs a steepish arete from sitting - loads of consecutive slaps yet remains not too difficult!

Hiked back to the car, regrouped and decided it was too late for a Rosedale or Esklets visit so we trotted down the hill from the Lion to Round instead. Got on the steep side of the arete on the good boulder beneath the crag which was a great marker for how much my elbows have improved - I couldn't contemplate pulling on last time I was there. Yesterday however, cleaned the holds and fired it off first go. Top Problem. After a quick work, linked the sit too.


< Lee on the Round Crag arete - 'Pannierman's Arete', font6b+


< me looking like a creature from starwars on the top throw move of Pannierman's Arete

So that was one good little project off the list only to be replaced with something considerably more diificult, the Oak Wall.

Got more inspired by the routes at Round as we left. Very keen to try them. Hope to try and flash Farndale Fayre. Pippi Longstocking and Scut de Scun Ai on the other hand will have to succumb to a bout of headpoint mania I think!

So, another good day. More inspired than ever with moors climbing at the moment. Hopefully get back up there doing stuff this week.

1 comments:

  1. Careful on The Fayre. It's pretty hard. Glad to see you've found the Oak Wall. It's a hard move up top though.

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