down the gardom path

Hit Gardoms today. First time bouldering on grit since well, as long as I can remember. Armed with my 'off-piste' topo sheets I was keen to check out some relatively recent additions to the edge. I was also keen to calibrate my Gradeometer and Qualityometer today since I've just been doing/trying new stuff for ages. After a bit of a warm up and deciding conditions were pretty terrible at the sheltered and sunny crag I thought I'd try and flash Double Bum. Failed. I did get up it in the end but it was quite a fight sliding around on greasy (and slightly dirty) sloping rails for what felt like ages, wondering which hand to slap with next. In fact I was on it so long, desperately trying not to drop it after the initial jump move crux, I had to edit down my send footage a little.

For a new crag tick, headed to Moorside Rocks next. Mainly to rest my now wet kitchen roll like skin a bit and to have a look at Superbloc. Wow, wish I could climb that. Impressive patio work completed under it too. I did a nice little arete problem which I've since found out is called 'Little Latino' - it looks a bit like a very very little brother of Superbloc.

Then back to Gardoms and English Voodoo. Half an effort at flashing, failed. Unfortunately ran out of cam-corder battery before eventual success too. Really good problem this one. The left hand pocket chewed my tips a little but apart from that, great fun.

Was gone 6 by now as we only got out late and my old man and dog were ready for off, so we did. Much to the relief of my tips and elbows. Only 2 ticks but decent ones and an enjoyable afternoon overall for sure. It was also definitely a useful session for confirming the following:
1. why I only used to go grit bouldering when it's cold
2. the best problems we've been doing on the moors would get 3* in the peak
3. our gradings for problems are generally spot on
4. moors sandstone is way less fickle than grit, easier on your skin and more fun to crank on when it's warm.

Anyway, sadly no English Voodoo but here's the other send from today:

Double Bum from Ram Man on Vimeo.