proj goes down

Raven's Scar project went down today. Get in! Went first lead attempt of the day - was great to be back doing those moves again and actually completing the full link for the first time felt awesome. Was all over pretty fast but was still fairly pumped topping out! Conditions were perfect for it today.



The route essentially starts from the large midway break/ledge where you can have a full sit down rest, eat a sandwich and arrange all the gear before embarking. I arrived at the ledge via Satchmo-classic E2. I allowed myself gear in the start of the Stratagem crack since it's possible to place without actually stepping off the ledge and, for that reason, it would feel contrived to me to not have those runners.

After the technical crux up a big hanging flake on the left hand side of the arete, you end up swinging rightwards onto the big flat hold on the arete as per pic above. After a quick shake and optional bat hang on it(!), you span/throw right again to a line of sidepulls. Build feet, left heel/toe goes in next to left hand and reach over with left hand for a cool sloping ramp. Release heel, hack right foot up and slap into good holds at the top of the stratagem crack system. Last move as per stratagem to top out.

It took a while for me to fathom that solution, inevitably trying to climb the arete more directly initially. Plenty of classy moves in a great exposed position, it's a well balanced route and I think it's the logical progression in finding a way through that section unclimbed rock.

I did film the complete deed but unfortunately the sun came out from behind the crag whilst I was chilling on the ledge causing the contrast to become ridiculous (ie out of focus black climber and rock) so the video is shocking (still, proof enough! ;) ) I'd like to go up and get some good footage and photos anyway, hopefully of other people trying/doing it too, so will try to make amends on that front soon.

Right then....

Name - haven't got one yet!
Grade - finding this difficult too. I reckon the climbing is of the order of french7c. The route feels a bit spicy (slappy moves with feet above gear) but totally safe so, on paper, that makes it E6. My trouble with that is that it's way harder then any of the other E6's I've done. ie. this took a multi-day headpoint siege Vs onsights/flashes..... It's also way harder than Ch-Ching (the low part of the arete to the break, which gets the split grade of E6/7). So maybe E7 is more realistic. Especially when I cnsider it as an onsight proposition - blind, sequency, slappy moves.... It's the quality that counts most for me so I'm not really that bothered.
Anyway, I think I'll vote for E7 6c then at worst I've overgraded by one and I can live with that.

And that's all the rambling I've got in me for now. Will try and come up with a good name for it tomorrow. Elbows hurt a bit but it was worth it!