Friday, 8 January 2010

so far so good

yup, not bad at all. 2010 that is.... So far this year I have:
  1. Been out climbing at Cratcliffe
  2. achieved a 12322 PB on powerball
  3. Made some music
  4. Almost learnt to backflip
  5. Performed a pull up with only minor discomfort for the first time in months
  6. Worked some/Earnt money
  7. Booked a 1-way ticket to the Pyranees
  8. Done lots of hand brake turns
  9. Played in the snow
  10. Been Partying a few times
  11. managed a half-session on Guy's board
Which, for me, is pro-activity on an unpresidented scale. Where relevant, I'll give a little extra detail for each number now, you may want to skip this! (this golb has selfindulgentdrivel in the title for a reason):

1. New years day. Cold but nice day at cratcliffe and the stride with Al, Laura & Noaks. I actually managed some climbing and pulling on rock which was nice. The others had a decent day but noaks was a bit shit. I stopped climbing relatively early. My highlight for the day was finding a way to run up that egg boulder arete after still finding it the most desperate 6A+ or whatever ever.
2. Left handed as well! As my right elbow is more injured than my left I've been closing the gap with my golly hand due to holding back a bit with the right. Crushed my 12K ambition now, hoping to top 12.5K soon. 12K was a big barrier - can get it either hand fairly consistently now with a good warm up.
3.well yeah, check it:

distorted jungle jam in E from Ram Man on Vimeo.


I've recorded all sorts of stuff but have become a bit confused and lost with it all now so will leave it for a bit and hopefully restore some perspective. Distorted Jungle Jam was day 1 of starting to record music and remains the work i'm most happy with so far! Posted it around the place on facebook and people seem to like it.
4. Almost but not yet. I've just been trying by myself in my back garden on evenings in the snow (the neighbours must wonder). I got to the stage where I was getting over and landing on my knees, on all fours, but not getting enough height to nail and land it. Day 3 of trying saw a bottled attempt with no tuck and I landed on my neck quite badly. Since then I've been overcome with the fear (which leads to jumping backwards too much and not upwards) even in the deepest snow. I've come close though and it's something I've always wanted to be able to do so I'll get there eventually.
5.yup, that's good.
6.needs must
7.back to Ariege land for me. I'm expecting to be there for 2-3 months and intend to climb plenty and work plenty. Elbows definitely getting there now which feels brilliant so gently getting back into things there should be perfect - much less dangerous as rehab than grit bouldering I reckon... I'm taking my beastmaker (which it seems my elbows will let me use again now) so no excuses for not getting stronger fingers. I should get lean in that time there too which is necessary - 2 more weeks living at home and I'll definitely make it onto the wrong side of 12stone. Might do some ski and/or board puntering there too over the next few weeks provided funds and opportinity allow. But mainly just desperate to start getting back into climbing.
8. It just slipped officer
9.I was relieved to find I still have the youthful desire to get out there snowballing and sledging. Decent snowball fight with some chavs ensued on the mean streets of willerby tonight. More sledging tomorrow.
10. yup, desire to be sociable has been there for the last couple of weeks. Enjoyed it, met some decent people, caught up with some old ones. Touched no girls though.
11. Last night I went to guys with al just for the company as much as anything. However I still can't quite believe it but I ended up actually putting in a decent session on his board. So elbows must be nearly there I reckon, they feel alright still today anyway. It confirms what I was thinking that they need use to heal but I didn't realise they were ready for such heavy use as climbing on a steep board. nice.

And that's my story of the year so far. Hopefully things will continue in the same vein (of actually doing stuff) all year. That's 2 ticks off the year's aim list already, with another in the pipeline. My main aim for the year is to live in places with good climbing, more specifically, not to live at home with my parents - much as I love them, living away is the only option for any sane 25 year old. Fly to Carcassonne on monday, looking forward to catching up with tez and ian, getting out to the crags, training and getting fitter.

I'm a bit gutted I'm going to miss grit season altogether this year but then I'm totally out of shape and my elbows certainly couldn't take harder bouldering yet so not missing much by going away anyway.

So far the plan is Ariege for couple of months, come back in decent shape with a decent bank balance, go climbing and crush moors projects, renew passport, do some work in the UK and then see what things are looking like and take it from there. Back to Ariege? Take up residence somewhere good in the UK like N Wales/Sheffield/Leeds? Currently really keen to get back into tradding lots and competently so long trips away in spring and summer would be great. Finding people to climb with will be the biggest obstacle there I reckon. Anyway, enough waffling, I'll see how it pans out.

Almost forgot, Happy New Year and that.

3 comments:

  1. Happy New Year. Glad to hear you're getting better and have a good trip!

    What are you're thoughts of doing the arete as a winter route? I reckon it would be a bit easier, but i'm not too sure whether it would damage it...

    ReplyDelete
  2. PS. The music is cool. All you?

    ReplyDelete
  3. cheers, and you.

    I assume the proposed winter ascent is a bit of a wind up but anyway.....

    Is the stratagem butress entirely encased in a thick protective layer of ice and snow? If yes, then go for it. If not, you'd be using axes and crampons on the actual rock/holds and you know as well as me it'd fuck the rock up badly. the rock's not even as strong as grit (i've already broken one hold on the route) - you don't see people dry tooling on bowden or stanage for a reason...
    Your question is the same asking, "is it ok to do right unconquerable as a winter route?"

    So, I reckon best option is to wait till spring and come and climb it properly with me. My solution isn't all that hard - you'd do it.

    cheers, glad you liked it, yeah music all me, some background on actual vimeo page...

    piece

    ReplyDelete