Headpoint punterneering

Went back on the Raven's Scar project today. Driving up I felt fairly confident of glory after the last session but alas, I've returned empty handed! It became clear from the off today that the route wasn't going to go down without a good fight....

Here she is (well part of her):



For some reason, I found the first crux really hard today. I think it was partly getting the body position wrong on my initial goes (not warmed up) and then subsequently just psychologically struggling with it. Next, I realised I'd underestimated the complexity and difficulty of arranging and placing all the gear on lead. At this point, I was starting to wonder if I'd actually get on the sharp end for some goes today.

Fortunately, after a rest, the second crux section went really well - linked it first go and then tweaked the sequence a bit making it less physical and more predictable - nice one. However, I didn't have it all my own way. Today was the first time I've tried the moves with the gear in and the final piece before the top proved particularly annoying and problematical - getting in the way initially of my left hand and then my left heel/foot on the second crux. Not to mention been pretty strenny to get in right in the first place. Ultimately, I reasoned I could just about climb around it and it seemed immune from getting kicked out despite my best efforts climbing on top rope...

So, having convinced myself I couldn't really hurt myself, I felt ready to have a go - sport route mentality. I set off, giving myself roughly even odds. Got to the ledge without issue, got all the gear arranged and sorted the 3 rope system. Chilled for a couple of minutes in/on the ledge then went for it.... I probably stayed on for another 20 seconds or so before blowing the slap on the first crux. Bugger. At least that gear holds then....

I justified leaving all the gear up to that point in and pre-clipped as placing it is a total formality from hands free rests and I can downclimb from the ledge to the deck anyway. Besides, the route/line I'm trying essentially starts from the half-way deep break/ledge so what gear you have in up to that point and which route you take to get there is arbitary.

So having justified cheating a bit, I set off on my second go on the lead. I climbed better this effort but I knew instantly once I'd latched the holds and consolidated after the first crux I was too tired to finish the route today. I ploughed on anyway and placed the two remaining pieces up to and on the arete. On arrival at the arete hold, I jetisonned my 3rd (and now redundant) rope as planned. Except the way it had fallen across my other ropes, all snagged and ready to drag like a mother wasn't part of the plan. So I sat in - no other option really. At least I was learning how to manage the gear and ropes on the sharp end for next time(s) . I knew I wouldn't have made it that go anyway, so not to worry.

Once sorted and a little rested I thought I'd battle on and see what the second crux section felt like on the sharp end. Powering out quickly, I decided it didn't feel all that fun so did that thing where you shout 'take' whilst letting go anyway, slightly above and off to the side of my last piece. Much to my surprise, said piece rocketed out of it's placement and cracked me on the head as I shot downwards and sideways back around the arete and came tight on my new last piece. Fortunately, this one held.

And that was enough for one day and it was pretty much dark anyway.

After a bit of analysis of the angles and placement, I understood why the piece I'd tested a bit earlier and deemed decent had ripped on the actual lead. Hmmmm, yet another thing learnt today.

I'm still not too sure what to make of the route now. It's hard to decide just how serious leading it would be without this piece in the arete. There may be scope for some other gear or perhaps a sceond belayer way off to the right (gaia stlye). I'll have a think about it tomorrow. The route's undoubtedly more serious now that I know that last bit of gear is no good. Protection-wise, it means for the second crux section, you'll have a good thread miles below and out of sight on one rope and a decent cam a bit below but miles out to side around the arete and out of sight on the another. Scary but on the plus side I like the thought of not having to stop to place it and it not getting in the way....

All in all, it's great to have found this project to get stuck into. I've got the climbing dialled now. Just need to have a think and get the gear strategy dialled too and it'll be good to go. I'll stop rambling for now about it anyway. Knackered.