The frustrating thing is, I don't really understand why or how I failed this time. I don't think I've ever been in this position with a route before. I'm no relentless ticking machine but it's fair to say, once I know I can climb something or at least nearly climb something, I generally get to the top. And know I can climb this project. Yet I didn't.
^view out from base of crag - perfect conditions - even a nice breeze too....
My first go was my best of the day. I nailed the first crux the best I ever have and had plenty left in the tank on the arete jugs - more than enough to see me to the top and I knew it. But I blew it on one of the initial moves in the second crux sequence, a move I've barely ever failed on. For some reason it just felt way harder than usual. Optimistically, I'm just hoping the excitement got to me and I messed up the body position which is fairly crucial to this move. I know it wasn't anything to do with pump/power out because I've done from the jug to the top in considerably worse states on top rope.
Second go I got to the same point but found everything getting there harder and the move I'd failed on previous attempt now felt more or less impossible. Oh dear.
Third go wasn't worth the effort!
Anyway, to the positives:
- though it was disappointing not to do it, I did achieve a p.b. on the route with that first effort.
- I've got the climbing and the protection/ropework totally wired now and though failure on the second crux means decent length falls, the route's safe so I'm can gun for victory with abondon on the lead, stress free.
- I might be able to find a more reliable way to do the move I was failing on next visit(never really experimented with that bit before...)
- The weather looks good next week.
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